Statutory Grape: The Soothing Sweetness of Ports

Have you looked around at your classmates lately? They are getting fat, living high on the hog (kosher exceptions permitted since this is a figure of speech), and spending way too much time indoors studying for finals and writing meaningless dribble posing as an ethical discourse on why the subprime mess is a an egregious malfeasance by large lending institutions. Sure, I buy that line of thinking… just as much as I buy the idea that you were fifteen pounds lighter a month and a half ago and you haven't changed your eating habits. The fact of the matter is, it is getting cold outside, the meals are getting heavier, the exercise level has disappeared into a remote hideout housing DB Cooper, and well… we are just getting plain lazy. But rest assured, there is solace in the lines that follow, and I will certainly put you to ease. Don't worry, John Doe is not going to write 'Sloth' behind your refrigerator in grease (Ori won't either) as you take your last gasps of air, rather we are going to give you more of a cheery perspective on the poundage that you have accrued like a dividend payment. What I am talking about here is Port - the sumptuous and sugary after dinner drink that soothes the soul and provides a welcome finish to any glutinous meal. For my taste, I prefer Tawny Port of reasonable age. The wood ageing provides a sweet nuttiness to most producer's efforts, some more than others. There is typically a highly extracted note of caramel and multiflora honey mixed with walnut oil, baked apple, and dark cherry compote taste. The texture is silky, coating the mouth in a lasting wash of flavor. Definitely something to be savored. Port is not simply a product of Portugal, but has gained traction all over the world. In fact some of my favorite tawny ports are from Australia. The thing I like most about Port is that it is the perfect gift at holiday time. There is an outstanding variety of port readily available for sale at a good price - offering spectacular quality and value. The best part about Port as a gift is that it is virtually nonperishable. The wines, typically fortified with brandy, can last for decades without opening, and months once opened. Port is a social lubricant, and a means to finish a great holiday meal in style. Here are some of my favorites, and some that I believe that you will certainly enjoy:

Warres Optima: This is a great port for the money, and offers a nouveau-traditional approach to Tawny. It offers a touch of acidity, some balanced alcohol, and a bit of residual sugar on the palate. It is not a lush desert wine, but has a lot of extracted currant flavor, with a hint of nutmeg and allspice. It offers nice complexity, and will serve you well. The only drawback is the diminutive size of the bottle; even though the packaging looks great (GMA approved no doubt). Priced at $18/bottle.

Graham's 10 YR Tawny: Simply the best value out there in my book. Purely delicious, and I would expect nothing less from this storied Port producer. The burnt umber and amber colors dance vividly, showing good alcohol. The nose is highly perfumed with notes of burnt sugar, fig, and apricot. The taste explodes on the palate, with star fruit, cinnamon, and baked apple flavor. Almost reminiscent of calvados. The texture is pure satin, and the finish is well balanced and long. There is not too much sugar here, with an err toward lively acidity, which makes the effort beautiful and complex. Priced at $30/bottle.

Galway Pipe: A product of Australia, this is one of the sweeter ports I have tried. Considering my bitter personality, it helps fill the gaping void in my soul. It is sweet, and lush, and downright yummy. It has a beautiful amber color, reminiscent of butterscotch and caramel - which are very pronounced flavors in this desert wine. It is almost syrupy in texture, coating the mouth fully, and creating a long lasting finish. This is a wine that should be enjoyed on its own, due somewhat to its sweetness, but mostly because it needs no support. It is a great wine, and has become one of my favorites over the years. Priced at $30/bottle.

Yalumba Museum Reserve: The designation of museum in the name of this Australian tawny is apropos, because it should be put on display and honored by crowds of onlookers. This stuff is fantastic. Ripe, extracted, and vibrant - this is a wine that explodes with candied fruit flavor and rich roasted plum, dried prune, and ripe fig flavors. It has a massive mouth feel (watch the reflex), and is substantial in every way. The complexity of spice and nuttiness abound mid palate, and add to an already beautiful finish. While the fruit age is roughly 16 years old, it drinks with far more woody essence like older ports I have tasted - certainly a reflection of the refined fortification process, and the expertise of the winemaker. A desert on its own and a wonderful gift. Priced at modest $15/bottle.

Cockburn 20 YR Tawny: If your immature sense of humor can get past the name of the producer, you are in for a mature and wonderful Tawny port experience. This is the crème de la crème when it comes to Tawny port. Beautiful notes of butterscotch, caramel, poached pear, clove, raw honey, nutmeg, and slight plum come together in perfect harmony. This is amazing stuff, and is not to be missed. The style is more on the side of sweet than fruity, and that is fine with me (have to keep my soul filled and balanced). The lushness of this effort, combined with the overwhelming complexity, leave me remiss not to finish the bottle on my own (the only thing holding me back is the memory from last Christmas when I achieved such a feat and wound up using a Christmas stocking as my date for the night. Good thing there was no overlap with Hanukah; otherwise the name of the port would have come into play). Anyway, I really don't have much more to say here - it is perfect. Priced at $55/bottle, and worth every penny.

So my fellow Sternies don't feel bad that you put on a few pounds this Holiday season - it is expected, and no one has noticed that your sweaters are strangely baggier. Live a little, enjoy the season, and especially enjoy some fine sugary fortified wine after every holiday meal. Season's greetings from both myself and Ori.